Plumbing Questions, Answered Directly
General plumbing questions that come up regardless of which specific service you need. For questions about a particular repair, check that service's page directly, or just call.
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This page covers general plumbing questions, water pressure, drain care, licensing, and basic home plumbing knowledge, that apply regardless of which specific service you're researching. For questions tied to a particular repair, each service page has its own dedicated FAQ section. If your question isn't answered here or elsewhere on the site, call (720) 664-0815 and ask directly.
Can't find the answer you're looking for? Call (720) 664-0815 — a real dispatcher can answer plumbing questions directly, no need to dig through a website first.
Questions Every Homeowner Eventually Asks
Most homes run best between 40 and 60 PSI, with 80 PSI generally treated as the upper safe limit for fixtures and appliances. Pressure consistently above that accelerates wear on pipes, valves, and supply lines and raises the risk of water hammer and premature failures. A simple gauge attached to an outdoor hose bib can confirm your home's actual pressure in a few minutes, and municipal water is sometimes delivered at pressure well above what household plumbing is rated for, which is what a pressure-reducing valve is designed to correct.
Banging or knocking right when a faucet, washing machine, or dishwasher shuts off is usually water hammer, a pressure shockwave created when a fast-closing valve stops moving water abruptly. It's a different mechanism than the popping or rumbling sound a water heater makes from sediment buildup. Persistent water hammer can loosen pipe joints and fixture connections over time and is typically resolved with a water hammer arrestor or a pressure-reducing valve.
Grease and cooking oil, coffee grounds, eggshells, pasta and rice, so-called "flushable" wipes, and stringy or fibrous food scraps cause a large share of preventable clogs. Grease coats pipe walls and hardens as it cools, while rice and pasta keep expanding after they're down the drain, both narrowing the pipe's usable diameter over time.
Colorado plumbing licenses are issued and tracked by the state, and a legitimate company should be able to provide license information on request. It's reasonable to ask directly whether the specific technician arriving at your home holds an active Colorado plumbing license, not just whether the company is registered as a business.
A general inspection every one to two years is a reasonable baseline for most homes, catching slow leaks, worn valves, or early water heater wear before they turn into emergencies. Older homes, properties with known pipe material concerns, or homes on well water often benefit from checking more frequently.
A licensed plumber has passed state-required testing and carries insurance specific to plumbing work, while a handyman may perform basic repairs without that licensing or the legal authority to pull permits. Anything involving your main water supply, gas lines, or sewer connections generally requires a licensed plumber by code, not just by preference.
The main shutoff valve is typically located where the water line enters the house, often near the water heater, in a basement, crawlspace, or utility closet, or in an exterior box near the street on some newer construction. Turning it clockwise shuts off water to the entire home. Every household member should know its location before an emergency, not while one is happening.
Cloudy or milky tap water is almost always trapped air bubbles, not a contamination issue, and it typically clears from the bottom of a glass upward within a minute or two if left sitting still. Air commonly enters the system after nearby repairs, a water main flush, or a sudden pressure change. Water that stays cloudy after settling, or that has an odor or unusual color, is worth having checked.
General knowledge only goes so far when it's your own pipes making the noise. Call (720) 664-0815 and get a straight answer about your specific situation.